K.I.S.S.

After driving D and Helene crazy for a few days, trying to figure out my fabric choices for the wardrobe, I've decided I'm making this too complicated again (big surprise yes? LOL).  So I'll be focusing on just 5 major pieces for IRCC2, plus whatever bibs and bobs of accessories I can get through.  The overall look inspired by the drawing to the right.

So here they are;

Under-shift: white linen with ribbon trim

Stays; white linen with some lace maybe

Square neck camicia; white linen with gold lace

Sottana; red silk taffeta trimmed in gold

Dogressa's Coat; for this a picture will surpass a thousand words.....courtesy of my fav silk supplier Puresilks

  My ideas at the moment for accessories are a snow leopard zibi, a silk gaze partlet maybe with a small falling ruff, a gold and pearl girdle belt, pearl drop earrings, a pearl necklace with gold pave spacers, some new silk garters perhaps with tassels, a faux hair piece in a elaborate braided bun, a large feather fan, and if things go well a small hunting hat.

  I rather doubt that I'll get all of the above done.  However its good to aim high yes?

IRCC 2...here we go

   So this year's goal for me for IRCC is an interchangeable Venetian wardrobe.  The idea being that I can dress fully as a lady or fully as a gent or someplace in between, and my mood and commitments for the day determine.

  Tonight I've gotten primary construction done on my first piece for the project......an under shift.....a comfort layer for me since I do intend to wear a separate pair of stays.

  I will freely admit that I believe from my research that stiffened sottonas would be far more accurate for torso shaping and support.  However with my ever changing (at the moment shrinking) size I don't want to have to rely on the sottonas to hold up the ladies.  That path leads to constantly rebuilding my wardrobe and never being happy with the fit......(yeah been there before, just ask my mother) ;-)

Bits in progress from Helene's wardrobe

Ah yes sleeves, the jewelery of late period Italy

What of what to do with Pinkie

Venetian doublet gown

 Since I have decided that I CANNOT buy any more fabric other that utility stuff (linen interlining, eyelets, etc....) until I make gowns out of at least 85% of my current stash......I am endeavoring to decide what to to with the fabric from Pinkie (my very first venetian gown). The portrait to the left is what I would 'like' very much to do with the fabric.  However, to get the look right it would require three layers of garments.  Plus it is a much longer waistline than I have been doing of late.  Mainly because my weight keeps fluctuating, and it irritates me to be constantly altering my garments so they fit correctly.

Slightly higher waistline Venetian doublet gown

Option number #2 on the right here; is a slightly looser and higher waistline doublet style gown with a cartridge pleated waistline....Far less trim work would be involved to make this look happen.  I could spend my sewing time playing with the lovely falling ruff shown in the portrait.  An item might i add that isn't effected fit wise by weight loss or gain on my part.

  I would however still need to make a new set of stays that were longer to get the line....not to mention run the risk of a significant rebuild on the gown inside of a year......so not ideal on that end.

Florentine gown

Option three is a high waistline Florentine gown with full loose cartridge pleated sleeves.  Almost exactly what I made for IRCC.....this look is all about accessories.....fur trimmed lower sleeves.....blackworked high neck camicia.....elaborate girdle belt.....and a small net balzo.....all things that are not affected by weight fluctuation.....however that being said.....I'm not stoked about a third very simple gown with the exact same neckline.....but it would not require a new set of stays.....and it would only take me about 20 hours to get the gown finished not including accessories......so something to contemplate......

Thoughts?

Pics from in the trenches - Part 2

Short Stays for Florentine Garb

So the next time I have someone say to me 'There is no way that a non-commercial bra can support my boobs, they're to big', I'm going to bring up this customer as an example. Hopefully I will shortly have some pictures of the lady herself sporting these stays.

But in the meantime let me give you the measurements of this customer to ponder;

Chest       52"
Ribcage   42"
Width of shoulder 16"

In modern lingerie sizes that would settle out to a 42-I

Pics from in the trenches

I've got waaaaay to many things to finish before Oct 15th but I thought I'd share some in progress pics;

 One of the in progress projects is and Edwardian/Gibson Girl Corset. The image to the left is the corset out of Corsets and Crinolines of the style I'm trying to emulate.

Here is my rendition of the pattern based on the customer's draping

Test run of Edwardian aka Gibson Girl corset

Above is the pattern that I drafted based on Ms Allie's draping.  To the left is the test run of the pattern made of extra fabric that I've had hanging around. Embroidered white linen lined in white silk habotai to be specific. Its not boned yet. Riptie and weed-wacker boning will be going in tonight.

IRCC --- Finished pics!

  Need shower and sleep right now but I just wanted to share some of my fav pics from Stags Bloodbath today taken by my awesome lady mother.  I'll post further pics of the underlayers soon.