Tuesday, July 12, 2011

IRCC update

 The first camicia for this project has the body seams done and the neck gathered. The second picture here shows that sort of....the fact that based on Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 4 .....I'm doing a fuller gather in the front and back than I am over the shoulders.
 Also based on Patterns of Fashion 4 I have drafted a pair of drawers.  I'll post a picture of the pattern at some point.  But I've machine flat felled the body seams (first time I've tried machine flat felling) I'm gathering the body to a set waistband that will close with an eyelet in the front.  I've also got red bobbin lace for these.

Special thanks to the lovely lady at Semstress.org for the tutorial on flat felling. 
So this is the bodice for my 'petticoat' layer.  As such it won't have sleeves. I've decided to go with an earlier period style and cartridge pleat it instead of having a lower waisted roped petticoat.

This also allows me to reuse the fabric from an earlier dress that was on the rebuild pile. I've ripped it all back to raw yardage to do the rebuild.....so no worries it still qualifies for the challenge.  But I am really enjoying using up stuff from the in house fabric pile!

Monday, July 11, 2011

Yes!!! I really do NEED all those fittings I asked for

 So as some of you might have guessed, since HE Arion did not debut his new Florentine court garb at Battlemoor, I ran into some problems.  The problems basically boiled down to me 'guessing' on fit instead of actually getting to fit the doublet on Arion.  With this sort of highly tailored doublet and Arion's impressively broad shoulders......well guessing on fit ended with me up a creek and now I'm going to have to get creative with retro fitting.....anyways here are some pictures of it in process.....
 I have him trying it on inside out because I had one arms lining pinned.

 You can kinda tell from this shot where I started to go wrong with the sleeves on this.....the back seam shows that I set the sleeve in rotated forward to far by what ended up to be about 4".

In the picture on the right ------------------>
you can see how the over-rotation is twisting the fabric and constricting his movement.....man has big shoulders and very muscular arms.....so having his sleeves 'flex' with him is very important.

 But I am really happy with how the detail at the neck is sitting on him....its even spiffier right side out because we didn't quilt the neck inset so it shows up very nicely.